Tag Archives | master bedroom

A sliding barn door saga: The finished product!

So a few weeks ago I shared about getting this old wooden door ready to hang in our master bedroom (sanding, staining, etc.) as a sliding “barn” door. It’s actually been hanging for a while, but with all the busyness of the holidays, I just didn’t have time to take pictures and get a post written.

After sanding the door, adding some wooden pieces to each end to add height, and staining it, we were ready to begin the hanging process. This was really intimidating for me, cause we had to screw 6 huge holes in the door! We chose to go with the more industrial track and hardware, partly because we liked the look and partly because it was nearly $400 cheaper (more explanation on that here).

Ultimately, we got it figured out and now we have a sliding door in our bedroom! I explain the process in detail later, but first the exciting part. Here’s what our master bedroom looked like when we first moved in complete with popcorn ceilings!

Master  Bedroom 3

And here’s what it looks like now with our new sliding door!


Now if we could just do something about that ugly floor in the closet!


I love how well the light fixture and the door go together! Our bed frame and dresser are really more french provincial, so I was worried that without another industrial element the door might look out of place. I think the light fixture really helps tie it all together.


For now we’ve moved this dresser to the opposite wall. It was just too big next to the door and kind of took away from it. I’m not sure we love it there (and Andrew’s already run into it several times in the dark), so it might end up moving to the wall opposite our bed.


Meanwhile, I stuck a few things in that huge empty corner, just so it doesn’t look so huge and bare. Eventually we want some of kind of reading nook with some shelves, a comfy chair, lamp, etc.


So now here are the gory details…After having gone through this whole process, I find it annoying that none of the other pictures I’ve found of sliding barn doors come with explanations of the process or how much work it is.

First, we found our hardware and box rail at our local Do It Best hardware store. This isn’t your typical big box hardware store, but primarily lumber and farm supply, hence why they had the right hardware for a barn door (Tractor Supply had box rails also, but they didn’t come in the shorter 8′ length, and we weren’t able to find the coordinating hardware). We looked at Lowe’s and Home Depot and once we got past the blank stares from the employees, found out they have nothing of the sort. I’ve stumbled upon a few DIY barn doors that use closet door tracks and plastic rollers, but these really aren’t meant to support very much weight. Also, they’re not attractive to look at (either for an industrial look or otherwise) so if you go with that method, you might want to hang a wooden valance over the track. Personally I prefer that the hardware and track are exposed and have a more rustic look.

Here’s what you need for this method (most of it should come in a kit, except the box rail and the pieces to hang the box rail.)

  • 2 metal casters/rollers (bottom left)
  • 2 long screws that attach the casters to the top of the metal brackets (bottom middle)
  • 2 metal brackets to attach to the door (top left) and 3 screws/nuts per bracket (in bag)
  • 2 stop pieces that go into each end of the track to keep the door from sliding off (bottom right).
  • 3 hanging pieces for the track (you might need more depending on the length of the track, how many doors you’re hanging, and the weight they’ll be holding) and 1 screw per piece (top right).
  • 1 box rail, at least twice length of your door(s)


The total for the kit, the 8′ box rail, and 3 hanging pieces was $92.

After prepping the door (sanding, staining, and most importantly, making sure it was the right height and width for our doorway), the first step is to install the metal brackets on the door. I centered them on the door and adjusted them to where I thought they looked best. Then Andrew drilled the holes.

The kit didn’t come with metal washers, but if you’re using a wooden door, it’s a good idea to use some. After he screwed them into the door, he cut off the back of each bolt with a Dremel tool.


We also figured out that the back of the metal brackets stuck out too far on the back of the door.

Without getting too close to the hole and weakening the back of it, Andrew ground down the back edge with the Dremel tool. If you use a door that’s thicker than ours, this probably wouldn’t be and issue, but see how close it is to the wood even after filing it down? Before it would have scraped.


Andrew cut the metal track using a Dremel tool to make sure it was accurate, and then sanded the edge using an angle grinder.  The wooden piece behind the track is another important element. After working through the logistics of it all, we realized there had to be something behind the track to bump the door out from the wall a little further. You can find more on that along with how we finished out the door frame here.


Again, this is something no other “tutorials” talked about, though after realizing that we needed it, we noticed it in almost all the the other pictures. Like this one, for example, even with a different kind of hardware.

Once you have the door frame completed (we took out a preexisting door and frame and redid the frame without door jambs and continued the trim around the inside of the door), install the wooden piece above. We did a thick enough piece of wood that we had some wiggle room as far as where to install the track, so we just put the wooden piece directly on top of the trim instead of with a space between like the picture above.

Then we brought the door inside with the brackets already attached and the screws already through the casters and bolted to the bracket.


To see where to put the track, we pushed the door straight up against the wall, held the casters up against the end of the bolts and added a little for clearance at the bottom of the door. We made a mark at the bottom of the casters, as that will be approximately the bottom of the track. We then fed the track over the casters and tried to lift up the whole thing (track and the door), lining it up with the marks. This was just as a final check that it wasn’t going to hit the floor or be too far away from the floor.

We set the door aside and first measured the distance between the 3 pieces that hold the track to make sure they were evenly spaced. Then we lined up the track again and marked the screw holes of the 3 metal hanging pieces. We checked again to make sure the track was mostly level and the brackets evenly spaced, though we focused on making it look visually level (our ceiling and floors aren’t perfectly square, so simply using a level might actually make them look off.) And then we screwed it in!


We chose to slide the hanging pieces onto the track before hanging it, and then I held the track while Andrew screwed in the pieces. Then we slid the door onto the track. The door itself didn’t look like it was hanging straight, so we fixed it by adjusting the screws that attach the casters to the brackets on the door just slightly until we liked the way it looked. Shown again below…


Then all that’s left to do is hammer in the stops on each end (which we haven’t actually done yet, cause it’s hard to get them in there!).


It was a lot longer and harder of a process than we originally anticipated, but we love the end result and think it was definitely worth it! Our house is sort of lacking in architectural details and character, so this definitely helps bring some uniqueness into our house! We absolutely love it! This may be my favorite project yet!


Read full story · Comments { 0 }

A beehive bedroom

For the past year or so, I have been searching high and low for a new light fixture for our master bedroom. This is why, in case you’re wondering…though this picture doesn’t convey how bad it really is.

Anyway, we never turn on the fan and it’s just not our taste, so we set our budget at $200 and began searching. It didn’t take much looking to realize that most options in that price range only have 2 or maybe 3 light bulbs. As much as we hate the fan, it has 5 lights, which our very long and natural-light-lacking bedroom desperately needs.  Another caveat was that $200 doesn’t go as far as you might think in the light fixture department. All the ones we could afford were much too small (think boob light size), cheap looking, or ones we had seen in a million places. We really wanted something unique and different.
And then finally one day, it happened! A few months ago, Andrew and I were in World Market (sadly the closest one is 4.5 hours away from home, so we try to stop by on the way back from visiting family) and saw this amazing honeycomb chandelier!

I immediately fell in love with it and most definitely loved the price tag (which at the time was $150). The middle is kind of like a chandelier, and the outside is like a drum shade, but it’s so much more unique than an actual chandelier covered with a shade, don’t you think? :) And yet I just couldn’t decide if it would work in our master bedroom as we’re part of the unlucky group of homeowners with 8′ ceilings. That, and I always need time to weigh large purchasing decisions. We left it there and traveled home, but we just couldn’t stop thinking about it!! A few days later I looked at it online and since it was on sale, sucked it up and paid the $20 in shipping. *Gasp!*

We were worried it might be too big, so before we bought it, we did some research on the correct size of a light fixture. To determine the proper diameter for your fixture, measure the room in feet and add the width and length together. The diameter should be that number in inches. Our master bedroom is 12′ x 17′, so our light fixture could be as big as 29″ in diameter. This one is 23″. To determine the height, take the height of the ceiling in feet times 2 or 3. It can be that tall in inches. 8 times 3 is 24. However if the light fixture is near a door or in a walking path, it should hang no lower than 7′ from the ground for clearance. Ours is over the end of our bed and a bench. Besides, have you ever tried to find a light fixture that’s only a foot high, over 20″ in diameter, makes a statement, and holds at least 4 light bulbs? And under $200? Impossible.

We took down the old ceiling fan, which as it turns out has gold designs on the reverse sides of the blades. Oh, if only we’d known before…NOT! Then we touched up this little mess on the ceiling.

We put up the honeycomb light (without actually wiring it, just to make sure we actually wanted to install it), and as I so often do during house projects, freaked out!! It was so low! Like just-above-my-head low.

But it’s hung with chains, so we figured surely we could cinch it up just a bit. First, we took 3 links out of each of the 5 chains extending from the center chain to the edge of the light. That was as many as we could take out and still have each chain reach the center.

Then we took this bigger link out of the top.

The links we took out of the other chains were about half the size.

So we replaced it with two of those just to make sure it would hold the weight, and then put it back up.

After all of that, it raised it about 5 or 6  inches. Not too bad. Before we raised it, you could still see the chains it was suspended from giving it a more chandelier-y vibe.

Now you can’t really see the chains making it feel a little more drum-esque, which we still like.

And now it’s a great height! If the average person (average as in not my 6’5″ dad or Andrew’s 6’7″ brother) tried to walk under it, they would no longer hit their head on the bottom of it. They would run into a bench, though. So see? No real danger anyway. Neither Andrew or I hit our heads on it, and it’s our bedroom anyway which is all that really counts.

In some of these pictures where it’s off it looks black, but as you can see from previous pictures it’s actually a copper color.

The color is also greatly affected by whether it’s on or off. Off: oil-rubbed bronze-ish.

On: copper. The light reflects off the metal, showing it’s true color. And yes, it does cast little honeycomb flecks on the walls, hence the beehive. We’re not bothered by the honeycombs, especially since it’s not in a main living area. Definitely something to keep in mind when buying light fixtures, though. Probably not ideal for a dining room chandelier. Or if you’re afraid of bees.

Personally, I like the little flecks. And apparently we have a thing for patterned light. We have this chandelier in the master, a chandelier with seeded glass in the guest room, a seeded glass flush mount in the hallway, and seeded glass sconces outside. What can I say, I happen to think light should make a statement, too!

Here’s the before with our quite bright, yet very outdated fan.

And here’s the after with our wonderful new honeycomb light!

AND not to ruin any surprises, but it’s going to go so perfectly with our soon-to-be sliding door, which gives off a very “rustic industrial” kind of vibe. Eek! Can’t wait! Next on the list: swapping that bench for something a little more contemporary and streamlined.

So what do you think about our new light fixture? I’m pretty sure this is one of those “you love it or you hate it” kind of things, but luckily, we’re in the “love it” category!

Read full story · Comments { 0 }

A sliding barn door saga: Sanding

Now that we’ve deemed the guest bathroom project complete, we’re determined to tie up a few unfinished projects. Last October I found several inspiration pictures of sliding barn doors and decided I wanted to do that in our master bedroom between the bedroom and closet. 

We found the track and hardware at our local Do It Best store for under $100 and found a door at the Habitat for Humanity Restore for $60. We were so excited to have all the pieces and get started on the project. But fast forward 10 months later…and the track and door are still sitting untouched in our garage. Well, that’s about to change!

The master bedroom was one of our first projects. We scraped and painted the ceilings and repainted the walls and all the trim. Now it’s ready for this doorway to be framed and the door to be hung.

Last night we finally got up the nerve (or found the motivation, maybe?) to work on the door. We like that the door is obviously a “found” item, not something we purchased new, so we didn’t want to strip it of all it’s character. Since it’s a fairly similar color to our wood floors, though, we do want to restain it. We removed the old hinges since it won’t be needing them, and then Andrew set it up on 2 sawhorses in our driveway and sanded it with a very fine grit sandpaper. Note the protective gear…continuous exposure to power tools can contribute to hearing loss later in life, so props to Andrew for protecting his hearing.

If the door had ever been stained before, there wasn’t really any evidence of it so it didn’t need much sanding. But we were still amazed at how much just a light sanding brought out the grain of the wood.  Here’s an close-up of the before. You can see some of the grain, but it was kind of “hazy” looking.

After it was sanded, you could really see how beautiful and intricate the grain was. It also made the door less red and almost the exact color of our floors, reinforcing that staining is the right choice.

We’re going to use a Rustoleum Dark Walnut stain, but after testing it out on this edge of the door, I think we’ll need two coats to make it contrast enough with the wood floors. I’m also nervous it might turn out too red. The dark walnut stain itself doesn’t really have red tones (hence why we chose it), but the door obviously does. We shall see.

We decided to leave the holes from the hinges and other holes that were already in the door. If we were painting it, we would definitely fill them, but the “stainable” wood filler just doesn’t hold as much stain as the wood, possibly making the holes even more noticeable. Besides, as I mentioned we want to make sure this door retains its character. We don’t want to cover it all up. This is hard for me to say, but it’s not supposed to be perfect (gasp!). Ugh, I said it. NOT perfect…as in we’re aiming for imperfect.

Maybe the staining will commence tonight? Or maybe not. Either way, gotta keep the momentum on this project so it doesn’t turn into a 6 month long ordeal like our bathroom! Wish us luck!

Read full story · Comments { 0 }

Comfy Cozy Bedding

Guess what I got in the mail last week?? A new duvet cover from West Elm for our master bedroom! Yay for more progress. We got off to a good start with the bedroom when we first moved in scraping the ceiling and painting the whole room, but since then little progress has been made. Now that we’re in this awful holding pattern with our bathroom (will it ever be finished?!), I’ve turned my attention back to the master bedroom.

Our current comforter is ivory with black details and matching pillows. I was so in love with this comforter when we got it at a wedding shower (mostly because of the pleating detail which ironically ties into the design of my wedding dress, too), but our wedding was almost 3 years ago. Also, the bed frame is a strange greyish-white color that in combination with the ivory comforter just looks dingy. Time for something new (for now this comforter set will go in the guest room).

After looking at comforters and duvets everywhere and discussing every possible color or pattern, we were just feeling overwhelmed with how to coordinate it with things we hope to have in the room someday (curtains, rug, and bench). So we decided to go with a simple white duvet and then add a quilt or pillows later to coordinate with other elements in the room. But there are still a lot of options in the white duvet department. We found some fairly cheap plain ones from Bed, Bath, & Beyond, but they just looked  a little unfinished to us. Target had some really cute ones, but the reviews were terrible! And a lot of them said they were major lint attractors. No good…especially with a long-haired cat.

Then I saw this one from West Elm.

And I was sold.  It’s a little pricier than we were hoping at $119, but we couldn’t find anything else we liked. Plus I had a 10% off coupon code. When we got it in the mail we were really glad we spent the extra. The quality of this duvet is obviously better than a lot of the others we looked at in person (like the cheaper ones at Target which, not surprisingly, felt cheap) and so far it hasn’t really attracted any lint. But we couldn’t bring ourselves to spend $24 per sham.

Since we were going for a sort of mismatched look anyway, I looked at the clearance bedding and found this set. 

The shams were $6.99!! Even somewhere like Target or Walmart that’d be pretty cheap, so I snapped up two of those, too. We were planning to use the old comforter as the insert for the duvet, but my mom told us that Bed, Bath & Beyond had down comforters on sale for $69.99 for all sizes. We decided to get a king for our queen duvet to make it seem a little fuller. I don’t know if this “queen” duvet is just a little bigger than normal, but the king size comforter works really well. (Confession: I didn’t have a BBB 20% coupon for that purchase! Eek!)

Here’s the before I shared a while back with our old bedding. It looks decent in this picture, but in person I think it just adds to the “yellowness” of the room (caused by our floors and inadequate amount of natural light).

And here’s with our pretty new bedding from West Elm! Not a huge difference in this picture, but it definitely looks better with the headboard and it’s getting closer to the more contemporary look I’m wanting. Got to find a less traditional looking bench, though…

It looks much fresher than the off-white comforter.

Here’s an up close of the “Organic Rice Pintuck” shams. They’re a nice light grey color, and they coordinate really well with the duvet without matching too closely. I want to add a few more colored pillows and maybe a quilt at the end of the bed (as well as get some new, not black sheets. Black sheets with an orange and white kitty are not a good idea).

Slowly but surely we’re making progress. Picture new sheets, a different bench, a rug, a new light fixture, curtains, art, matching height end tables…ok, so there’s a long way to go. But I’m trying to dwell on the positives.

 And just because he’s so freaking cute, here’s the Chaucey Sauce. He was very interested in the camera.

Read full story · Comments { 0 }